The authors enjoyed this trek in May 2004, and are pleased to report that it is becoming increasingly popular with visitors. All the hostels listed in the book, except for Zhalaló, are currently operating and look good. In addition, several simple new hostels have opened in Quilotoa village. Pacha Mama, at the top of the hill, is perhaps the best of this very basic lot.

Alternate Start of Route
In addition to the various alternatives for the start of this trek, given in the route description, we recommend another very scenic route which can be seen on the map (page 121). After descending from Isinliví, cross the first small footbridge over the Río Cumbijín (i.e. the bridge you first see on your way down the path). In 5 minutes you will reach a fork; take the west (right) branch, the left branch goes to Guangumala.

Follow the right-hand trail west as it climbs steadily, becoming a bit faint when it crosses several pastures. In 20 minutes you will reach a ridge-line; follow this south for 5 minutes to an intersection with another trail. Take the west (right) branch, it gradually veers south and climbs gently to a broad saddle in 15 minutes. Following an equally gentle 10 minute descent, the trail reaches a four-way intersection. Here you are looking down on a steep unnamed valley to the south, which you must circumvent to the east. Take the path which descends steeply to the southeast (left). In 10 minutes you will reach the stone trough described in the third paragraph of page 122.

The remainder of the route is as described in the book. An additional sketch map is available at Hostal Llullu Llama in Isinliví.

Bridges
The puente colgante (pedestrian suspension bridge) is looking a bit worse for wear. We crossed it safely, but those who prefer not to can ford the Río Toachi when the water is low. There may be small improvised log bridges over some of the branches of the river, so you might even keep your boots dry!

There is a new metal-frame bridge over the Río Toachi about 300 meters (1000 feet) north of Punto Alán. From this bridge, a trail climbs steeply east to Guantualó.

The small cement footbridge over the Río Sigüi, described in the first paragraph of page 125, is no longer there. It is easy to ford the river, however, which is usually only ankle deep but subject to flash flooding after heavy rain.